Raw Mango

A homegrown brand rooted in Indian culture, craft and community and global relevance, Raw Mango by Sanjay Garg draws from the philosophies and culture of India to create a unique design vocabulary. Founded in 2008, the luxury fashion brand collaborates with indigenous artisans and weavers across Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh, West Bengal and Varanasi to make traditional textile techniques relevant and modern while establishing a fresh design aesthetic. Founder Sanjay Garg's process centers on continuous experimentation within established design frameworks.. pushing the boundaries of traditional craftsmanship while keeping the essence of India at its core.

Hailing from Mubarikpur- Rajasthan.. fashion designer Sanjay Garg undertook a course in textile design and developed his unique design language in 2008 while working in Chanderi- Madhya Pradesh. Sanjay Garg began his career in Fashion showcasing handloom saris at Dilli Haat and Dastakaar Bazaar and was then handpicked by Anita Lal of Good Earth to stock at her store. 

Today the luxury fashion brand has carved a niche in Indian fashion for promoting handloom weaves through a contemporary design vocabulary. Sanjay Garg undertook innovations within the yarn and weaving process to create a new visual design language and weaving interventions. A commitment to experimentation underpins his design and production process, with further explorations in Mashru, Benarasi and Ikat weaves. Rooted in Indian heritage textile craft.. the designer constantly engages with established rubric to create new possibilities in fashion design.

Sanjay Garg is renowned for modern design handcrafted with indigenous fabrics, in particular Chanderi. "The challenge was to explore ways in which the motifs and colours of Chanderi saris can still make sense in today's day and age and the interesting possibilities in which we can balance both tradition and modernity… It was also interesting yet challenging to learn to be away from the typical "fashion cycle" but also keep things visually engaging by introducing new colours, motifs and techniques" Sanjay Garg told Explosive Fashion. "Innovations and resolutions come in many forms on the loom — major interventions included the addition of vibrant colours and colour blocking in the sari and borders, which were traditionally only gold…"

Sanjay Garg's label Raw Mango draws from the colors, philosophies and cultures of India to create a unique voice in design. With roots firmly entrenched in craft and community- the Indian luxury fashion brand's relationship with handloom began in 2008 to explore possibilities in textile craft. As a design house it continues to create new conversations in textile and culture through a range of saris, garments and objects. Created with karigars across Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh, West Bengal and Varanasi, Raw Mango’s designs innovate upon century old skills, in pursuit of defining a new aesthetic vocabulary.

Sanjay Garg is critically acclaimed for his radical approach to handloom. Per Vogue: 'While one may align Raw Mango’s offerings to fall under the anti-fit category, the ethos has championed structure which Garg reiterates is still the focal point but in a starkly different manner than ever before. After dozens of experimentations at the R&D stage, trial and error, Garg managed to make handloom stretchable— a rare feat to have achieved. "I wanted to show that handloom can also have more capabilities and the innovation cannot stop" he says.'

2022 was a milestone year for Sanjay Garg. From launching the 5,600 sq.ft. two storey Raw Mango Malligai in Chennai and a store in Hyderabad to his newest collection Peacock Country it's been a beehive of activity. Per Vogue: "The collection itself is extremely rooted to Indian craftsmanship and history which is indicative of Raw Mango’s signature aesthetic. Keeping festive silhouettes in mind, there's a heavy focus on embroidery and what Garg calls the ‘tehzeeb of gold and silver Ganga Jamuna’, aari, zardozi and gota work…"

Raw Mango was in the news recently due to its collaborative collection: Sher Bagh. "The perception of wildlife has been human-centric and one that places humans above all other life forms to serve their own purpose and needs. The resulting impact of this one-sided relationship has caused rapid endangerment and extinction of species worldwide including in India" Sanjay Garg tells Vogue. "This collection serves as my narrative using design and textile to highlight humanity’s relationship with nature and wildlife while raising awareness for India’s critically endangered animal life."

Sanjay Garg's design philosophy stems from the upliftment of handloom. For the fashion designer- handloom is not just a loom operated by hand; it is about culture, community and craft. The challenge was to explore ways in which traditional textiles and motifs could make sense in today's day and age and the interesting possibilities in which the designer can balance both tradition and modernity. Second, the loom can only handle certain techniques of weaving. And, it was also challenging to be away from the fashion cycle and yet keep things visually engaging by introducing new colours, motifs and techniques.

Fashion designer Sanjay Garg envisioned Raw Mango as a homegrown luxury brand rooted in Indian culture, craft and community and global relevance. The luxury label uses handloom weaves and draws from the design philosophies and culture of India to create a unique design vocabulary. The limited use of Chanderi, for example, proved to be challenging as the loom can only handle certain techniques of weaving. Major interventions on the loom include the addition of vibrant colours and colour blocking in the sari and borders, which were traditionally only gold; the introduction of new motifs like birds and mogra; and, of course, the simplified layouts of sari borders. 

A homegrown brand rooted in Indian culture, craft and community and global relevance, Raw Mango by Sanjay Garg draws from the colors, philosophies and cultures of India to create a unique design vocabulary. The luxury fashion brand retails saris that are handcrafted using handloom silk and cotton, brocade lehengas and kurtas in addition to odhanis and stoles. 

For Lakmé Fashion Week, Raw Mango Autumn Winter 2020 revisited his home state, Rajasthan. Per Explosive Fashion: "The fashion film was shot in Shekhawati and the narrative is rituals typical of Marwari weddings. I loved the lightweight trans-seasonal lehengas worn with graphically structured cholis and poshak-inspired long blouses and, of course, the kurtas with choli cuts and typical Rajasthani necklines. The central motif, the peacock, held its own on bold textiles and hand embroideries while his new gota and bandhej techniques gave traditional indigenous crafts a contemporary vibe."