Antar Agni

Gender fluidity and creative menswear silhouettes is at the heart of former Science student and NIFT alumnus Ujjwal Dubey's design aesthetic, reflecting Indian men's evolving attitude towards Fashion. Giving men more opportunities to wear fine fabrics and experiment with draping, his luxury label Antar Agni retails edgy menswear like dhoti pants, asymmetrical kurtas, waistcoats, double-breasted jackets and long coats crafted with handwoven khadi and cotton silk- and often draped beautifully.

Dubey finds ways to express the notion of loosening the strait-laced Indian man. “Menswear is a challenging category. I'm trying to add a distinct dimension to it with drape. The sole criterion is that the wearer should feel comfortable, confident and make a statement,” he tells Explosive Fashion. The focus is theatrical draping as he steers clear of embellishment. So it's no wonder that Antar Agni has won several honours including winning the regional round of Woolmark Prize Asia and being named in the 30 under 30 list by Forbes India 2017.
 

Born in in Gorakhpur, Uttar Pradesh, Ujjwal Dubey studied at the National Institute of Fashion Technology in Kolkata and worked for over three years with a prominent fashion label to hone his skills before launching his own fashion label Antar Agni under the Gen Next Category at Lakme Fashion Week in March 2014.

"After graduating in 2010 I began working for designers Shantanu and Nikhil on their sportswear collaboration for Adidas. Two years into my job, they decided to branch into menswear. The challenge was that menswear requires a more technical level of tailoring and I was a novice. I started detailed research on its intricacies; though it took some time to digest, it gave me a good deal of confidence" he told Border And Fall. 

Ujjwal Dubey applied for the gen next program at Lakme Fashion Week with just two ensembles and started working on the collection after the result was announced. Per Border And Fall he said: "I have no idea what got me through but looking back I suppose it was a new look that I introduced through layers and wearable drapes for men... I worked mostly on drapes, which became a signature of the brand later."

Ujjawal perceives fabric like a raw material that has its own character and malleability, waiting to be explored. As a fashion designer focused on process and method, he helps the material speak its own language. Utilising a keen sense of observation, respect for natural forms and an awareness that is always on lookout for unrehearsed synchronicity, Ujjawal continually develops his post-new age X naturalist aesthetic.

His fashion brand "Antar-Agni" focuses on two extremes, to break away and yet embrace the mundane. It is rooted in a restless curiosity to explore human nature through aesthetic and apparel. With a fascination for architecture and strong belief in naturalism, the design philosophy develops its own style of urban wear and updated classics that balance the contradictions of structure versus flow, natural forms versus tailored asymmetry and gender. So it's no wonder that Antar-Agni is often described as post-new age X naturalist.

Per Forbes: "In a country where most men's clothing is focussed around formal or wedding wear, Dubey's collection stands out. Characterised by being unstructured, by edgy drapes, asymmetrical cuts and plenty of layering, his clothes combine the traditional and Western. ‘There is much more than formals, wedding wear and casuals for men’ says Dubey who often uses a monochrome theme in his work and more of pastels, dirty linen, greys and blacks. ‘Finally, it seems menswear is in the spotlight.’"

Per Voice of Fashion: "Dubey’s bent towards mechanics, math and architecture helps him design. ‘Each garment incorporates functional elements that balance its weight’ he says. And then there's experimentation with the kurta. An Antar-Agni collection can typically have myriad versions of it. Draped with a button placket, cut with asymmetric hemlines and designed in wrap-around styles…"

Ujjawal has won critical acclaim for his collections including winning the regional round of Woolmark Prize Asia- Best Upcoming Designer for Menswear at Grazia Young Fashion Awards 2015- '50 most influential young Indians' by GQ India- and Elle Graduate Award in 2016. He was also named in the 30 under 30 list by Forbes India 2017.

Antar-Agni by Ujjawal Dubey is a fashion brand rooted in draped, gender-fluid silhouettes. The menswear is focused on individuality and both gender fluidity and draped menswear silhouettes are at the heart of former Science student and NIFT alumnus Ujjawal Dubey's design aesthetic. The luxury fashion brand believes in a departure from conventional style, leaving an influential impact on Indian fashion. 

Ujjwal Dubey has always been fascinated by architecture and this reflects in his design philosophy and brand vision of his luxury menswear brand Antar Agni. Focussing on unstructured edgy drapes, asymmetrical cuts and layering, his collections combine the traditional and Western to make the wearer stand out in a proverbial sea of black. Asymmetric draped kurtas  paired it with slouchy or dhoti-styled pants has a sensual indolence that subtly subverts the basic tee-and-joggers formula. There is the same incongruity in the jackets with wide drape collars or cowl necklines. Little things that suggested whoever is wearing the suit isn't the strait-laced guy you think he is!

Antar-Agni by Ujjawal Dubey designs and retails draped- at times anti-fit- gender fluid trousers, kurtas, jackets and bandhgalas for men. Although 30 per cent of Dubey's clients are women! The intent of 'Antar Agni' Autumn Winter 2016 was as layered as the garments showcased at India Fashion Week. Gender equality was at the heart of former Science student and NIFT alumnus Ujjwal Dubey's design aesthetic, reflecting Indian fashion consumers' evolving attitude towards Fashion. Giving men more opportunities to wear fine fabrics and experiment with draping, he sent out edgy garments like dhoti pants, asymmetrical kurtas, waistcoats, double-breasted jackets and long coats crafted with handwoven khadi and cotton silk.