Berluti

Berluti- an iconic men's fashion House of the LVMH Group- was established in Paris in 1895 by Alessandro Berluti. The luxury leather brand designs and retails men's shoes, belts, bags, wallets as well as bespoke and ready-to-wear menswear.

Established in 1895 by Alessandro Berluti, who remained creative director for five years, Paris-based luxury menswear brand Berluti is distinctive for its blend of technical skill and creativity, with its roots in bespoke. And although some things have changed with the times.. that artisanal spirit remains the same. 

It's interesting how Berluti became a bespoke brand. In 1962 Berluti was shoemaker by appointment to several distinguished men including the Duke of Windsor and Charles de Gaulle- then president of France. When Andy Warhol stepped through the door of Berluti, Paris to order a pair of bespoke loafers, the task of bringing his sketch to life fell on Olga Berluti… Olga had also picked leather that contained a visible flaw and she told the artist the hide had belonged to a particularly defiant cow... The shoes truly captured the rebellious personality of the artist who declared that from now on he only wanted leather from defiant animals. Today, the Andy loafer is an icon and a House classic in Berluti's Permanent Collection.

1n 1922 Alessandro son’s Torletto began taking a keen interest in boot-making and took the luxury brand to greater heights with his insistence on perfection. He was succeeded by his son Talbino who was driven by the passion to innovate and modernize the brand, and take it overseas. Since the Sixties, Olga helped transform the store into a creative social space where one could often find Karl Lagerfeld or Yves Saint Laurent. 

The luxury men's brand became acclaimed for the unique patinas in Venezia leather, which owes its existence to Olga who developed it using natural and mineral tanning; this process resulted in supple leather, which made it possible to bring out brilliant colour. Other than Venezia leather, bespoke order of rare leathers was available while adhering to strict rules for preservation of the species. Per Esquire: “Buying a luxury product is- in no small part- about indulging in the very best materials and that's exactly what you're getting here… you're also getting an artisanal approach to the actual crafting of the shoe… what else would you call it when a team of specialised craftspeople hand-paint Berluti's trademark patina treatment onto the leather with painstaking precision?”

LVMH acquired Berluti in 1993 as the only menswear brand in its portfolio and hired Haider Ackermann as Creative Director. Per WWD: Ackermann's first collection for the Paris-based menswear brand will be Autumn Winter 2017 presented during men's fashion week in Paris in January. The Colombian designer succeeds Alessandro Sartori, Berluti's previous creative director for five years. Ackermann's menswear was acclaimed for its rich color, draped silhouettes and of course, leather and the showing at Paris Fashion Week was a hit! 

In March 2018, however, Ackermann exited and was replaced by former Dior Homme executive Kris Van Assche. "I'm very proud to have had the opportunity to develop this extraordinary company and to have created a silhouette for the Berluti man. I want to thank Antoine Arnault and Berluti for the trust they have put in me" he mentioned in a company release. Kris Van Assche's vision was to find a meeting ground of the contemporary and the handcrafted brand sensibility. Per BoF, "The Berluti man, meanwhile, went from being fiercely masculine to being soulfully modern…"

"It's a man's brand- there is no doubt- but it's also nice to play with seduction, to make this Berluti man more sexy than the one I was working on before. This is definitely more grownup, more sexy. It’s about seduction and beauty" Van Assche told BoF. "I like to think there's a strong woman behind a man."

Berluti SS24 Menswear was well received. Per Vogue: "Suede truckers, suede detailed chore coats, suede field jackets and a beautiful (non-suede) mid-length bonded gabardine raincoat were other prime movers in the season’s dreamy outerwear offer. There was some suiting- immaculate in linen- but the emphasis here these days is upon garments that are as sophisticated as they appear casual."

The brand focuses on ethical fashion. Whether of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, most raw materials used to manufacture Berluti products come from nature. To return what it has borrowed from nature, the luxury fashion brand is committed to adopting a supply chain that contributes to the regeneration of biodiversity. Protecting resources and climate, respecting animal welfare, fighting deforestation, eliminating hazardous chemicals and reducing air and water pollution are key priorities. 87 per cent of the strategic materials currently used by the brand have been certified to meet the strictest standards. This will apply to all of these countries by 2026.

Luxury menswear brand Berluti's mission is to challenge the boundaries of craftsmanship. Berluti has been making shoes for the elegant man since it was founded. The Duke of Windsor, Jean Cocteau, Andy Warhol… The greatest clients walked through the House’s doors, each one passionate about and captivated by the timeless elegance of these exceptional shoes, elevated to the rank of works of art. 

Offbeat classicism and technical virtuosity are keynotes of the House, while its character remains the same. Its story began at the end of the nineteenth century, when a thirty-year-old Italian brought his creative energy to Paris in order to practice his craft as a master shoemaker. He named his first model, a lace-up shoe, after himself, Alessandro, and the House took his surname, Berluti. Since then, every generation of the House has cultivated exceptional savoir-faire in the mastery of form and working with leather and patinas. The result is models that are incomparably elegant and comfortable. 

But more than simply a prestigious shoemaker, Berluti's vision has always been characterised by a a certain art de vivre. Naturally, new areas of expression have been explored: leather goods in 2005, and in 2011 a ready-to-wear line was launched.

Berluti envisions bringing the consumers' designs to life with their artisanal skill set and creativity. Since 1895 the luxury menswear brand has cultivated its own unique style by bringing together audacity, fantasy and classicism. Expertise in shape, leather patinas, fabric selection and precision of cut are the signatures of the ideal male wardrobe. 

Since its inception in 1895, Berluti has cultivated a distinctive style that ombines audacity, fantasy, and classicism. This has allowed the brand to stand out in the luxury menswear market, offering pieces that are not only timeless but also injected with a sense of boldness and imagination. Berluti’s approach is about pushing the boundaries of traditional menswear while maintaining a deep respect for the classic elements that have defined masculine elegance for over a century.

Whether through bespoke shoes, tailored suits, or finely crafted accessories, Berluti’s commitment to excellence ensures that each piece not only meets but exceeds the expectations of those who seek the finest in luxury menswear.

Berluti designs and retails men’s shoes, belts, bags, wallets as well as bespoke and ready-to-wear menswear, with each piece reflecting Berluti’s commitment to superior craftsmanship and timeless style. Whether it’s the intricate leather patinas on their shoes or the fine detailing on their accessories, Berluti ensures that every product embodies the perfect blend of elegance and functionality.

Hand-assembled and customised right from the design to the choice of leather and patinas, Berluti bespoke shoes combine comfort and unique flair. As opposed to ready-to-wear shoes, the client is at the center of the process, and the future shoe will be created according to the morphology of his foot. Shape, soles, colors… everything is adapted to the client’s specifications. This includes the choice of leather – from the emblematic Venezia leather to more exotic hides. Last-maker, pattern-maker, cutter, stitcher… the craftsmen in the bespoke workshops will have carried out over 250 operations in order to offer their client the perfect shoe.

Berluti's bespoke service allows clients to create garments tailored to their exact specifications, offering a unique opportunity to design pieces that reflect individual style and fit. For those who prefer the convenience of ready-to-wear, Berluti’s collections are thoughtfully designed to offer sophisticated, high-quality options that suit a variety of tastes and occasions