Joy Mitra

Indian fashion designer Joy Mitra, since his debut, has been resolutely determined to stick with his aesthetic of keeping the look classic, elegant and timeless, with an Indian soul often inspired by Rabindranath Tagore. That hasn't changed till date. At the luxury fashion brand's core is a narrative of sustainability, gender inclusivity and upliftment.

National Institute of Fashion Technology Kolkata alumnus and Indian fashion designer Joy Mitra, since his debut, has been resolutely determined to stick with his aesthetic of keeping the look classic, elegant and timeless, with an Indian soul often inspired by Rabindranath Tagore. That hasn't changed till date.

Joy Mitra's eponymous luxury label was born out of his passion for art and fusion haute couture. Established in 2006 with a design philosophy which focuses on vintage, exquisitely handcrafted embroideries juxtaposed with modern, subtle styling. With a loyal customer base and strong distribution demand, the Delhi-based fashion brand is poised for growth as it evolves with the times. 

The designer tells Explosive Fashion: "The online store structure has been working very well in India and all over the world. Few years back it was hard to imagine that it could be viable but today everything is sold online. Post- pandemic, I feel this will gain momentum. E- stores will be the saviour and we need to work harder to make e-commerce even more effective for both buyers and sellers… Looking ahead, we are moving more and more towards online sales and technology is key. QR codes, no- touch payment will become 'the new normal' in due course. We have to become technology savvy and use it to our utmost benefit."

One of Joy Mitra's most acclaimed showings paid a tribute to Rituparno Ghosh. The fashion designer, who had worked with the late filmmaker as a costume designer in movies like "Khela" and “Dosar” credited him for teaching him the nuances of cinema and classic style. The collection at India Fashion Week witnessed anarkalis, tunics with opulent zardosi work, dhotis, jacket tops and sarees draped in the traditional Bengali style.

Another iconic showing celebrated late Rabindranath Tagore. What came across was the idea of cultures interweaving—silk and georgette with zari, Kalamkari, hand embroideries and appliqué—injected by a modern design aesthetic. The idea was clear as the showing opened with Tagore's 'Purano shei diner kotha' in the backdrop as a model in silk churidar kurta wearing library glasses and reverentially holding the 'Gitabitan' i.e. an anthology of Rabindranath Tagore's songs strode out on to the catwalk. The chiffon and georgette saris, short dress with calligraphic imprints, jackets, kurtas and voluminous skirts were straight out of early nineteenth century Kolkata though presented with a modern sensibility.

Joy Mitra is intent on shining the spotlight on indigenous textile craft. Per Explosive Fashion he says: “The need of the hour is to look inward. We, as a nation, are known for our textiles, our hand embroidery, our art. Honestly, now is the time we should work hand in hand with artists and weavers to revive every bit of it. Work closely with Banarasi weavers, Kalamkari printers, Chanderi weavers and many more! Because they are the true artists of this country. So let's promise ourselves to buy 'Made In India' products and help each other survive…”

Sustainability is the foundation of the luxury label. “We, in India, and in our Vedic culture, practice sustainable and practical since time immemorial. This is nothing new to our culture or country. We had just lost our way and forgotten the importance of nature and natural. In my designs, I've been using silks, cottons and chanderi" he tells Explosive Fashion. “I swear by the sheer beauty and character of such handmade fabrics… We must also ensure that sustainability, ethical fashion and transparency go hand in hand. Today, consumers come from a space where they understand the need for transparency and ethical practice. Personally, I'm in sync with that mindset and practice.”

Keeping traditional iconography intact within his his contemporary design vocabulary. His focus on rich, breathable fabrics, clarity of construction and function presiding above form is visible in all the collections. Material and an honesty in construction is key. And modernity is something Joy Mitra has mastered even when the process might remain decidedly by hand. There is a magic in this and certainly in today’s world a desire keener than ever to keep the creations by the hand as core brand values.

Indian fashion designer Joy Mitra envisions promoting indigenous textile craft by injecting it with a contemporary design vocabulary. The luxury label draws from deep-rooted design codes in his contemporary Indian occassionwear and bridal collections. 

Joy Mitra retails Indian occasion and bridal wear such as intricately hand embroidered Anarkalis, lehengas, saris, kurtas, dhotis and floor-length panelled dresses. His best collections—and Autumn Winter 2016 was surely one—come across like manifested dreams. The kurtas with lehenga skirts and layered separates embellished with zardozi flowers and intricate hand embroideries were the high point of the showing. 

Per Explosive Fashion: "The autumn palette transformed the pure Chanderi, pure silk and cotton silk embellished with motifs of butterflies, dragonflies and beetles navigating their way to beautiful flowers!! The hand-craftsmanship, the romance, the touch of European sensibility in the styling—those qualities were present in 'Joy Mitra' a decade ago and they were communicated as clearly now as they ever were! This sense of airiness marked the standout items in the collection, including an asymmetrical olive anarkali worn with a embroidered Chanderi silk skirt. That romantic, covered-up look made its way into the more dramatic eveningwear as well like the deep rust and grey kalidaars liberally splashed with zardozi flowers. Those of us looking to turn heads on the red carpet wouldn’t go wrong with the subtle revel of pieces like the Ajrak print kalidaar worn with an intricately embroidered jacket or an asymmetrical anarkali paired with a crinkled skirt."