Maison Margiela

Maison Margiela is a French luxury fashion house founded in 1988 by Belgian designer Martin Margiela. The brand is known for its avant-garde designs, unconventional tailoring, and deconstructionist approach to fashion. It has gained recognition for challenging traditional fashion norms by repurposing materials, reconstructing garments, and experimenting with oversized silhouettes.

In 1997, Maison Margiela introduced the concept of anonymity in fashion by ensuring its designers remained behind the scenes, allowing the work to speak for itself. The brand also became known for its blank-label approach, where its garments featured a plain white label with four stitches, removing any visible branding.

Over the years, the fashion house has expanded its collections to include haute couture, ready-to-wear, footwear, accessories, and fragrances. Its "Artisanal" line represents its haute couture collection, focusing on hand-crafted pieces and upcycling techniques. Maison Margiela also launched the Replica line in 1994, which recreates vintage clothing and later expanded to include fragrances that capture specific moments and places.

Martin Margiela stepped down as creative director in 2009, and in 2014, John Galliano was appointed as the new creative director. Under Galliano, the brand has continued its deconstructionist aesthetic while incorporating more theatrical and artistic elements into its designs.

Maison Margiela is now owned by the OTB Group, an Italian fashion conglomerate. It operates flagship stores worldwide and has maintained its influence in the fashion industry through collaborations and innovative collections. The brand remains a significant figure in contemporary fashion, known for its experimental techniques and boundary-pushing designs.

Martin Margiela, after graduating from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 1979, worked as a freelance designer and later as an assistant to Jean Paul Gaultier in Paris from 1984 to 1987. In 1988, he launched Maison Martin Margiela with Jenny Meirens, establishing their first store in an unmarked white space in Paris. The brand quickly became known for its deconstructed designs, featuring exposed seams and unconventional materials, reflecting influences from Japanese avant-garde fashion.

The debut womenswear collection in 1988 was presented in an unconventional manner, with models walking in an empty playground on the outskirts of Paris. Margiela’s choice to avoid the spotlight, refusing post-show bows and handling media communications collectively, emphasized the brand’s focus on the clothing rather than the designer’s persona. This approach led the press to dub him the “Greta Garbo of fashion.”

In 1997, Margiela took on the role of creative director for womenswear at Hermès, where he introduced understated collections that contrasted with the brand’s traditional image. His tenure at Hermès lasted until 2003, during which he balanced his responsibilities with his work at Maison Martin Margiela. The brand expanded its product lines over the years, introducing menswear in 1998 and its first haute couture collection in 2006. Notable collaborations include a 2012 capsule collection with H&M, which reissued iconic pieces from the Margiela archives, and partnerships with brands like Converse and G-Shock.

In 2002, Maison Martin Margiela was acquired by the OTB Group, led by Renzo Rosso. Following Margiela’s departure as creative director in 2009, the brand operated under a collective design team until 2014, when John Galliano was appointed as creative director. Galliano integrated the brand with his distinctive style while honoring its deconstructive heritage. In 2015, the brand dropped “Martin” from its name, becoming Maison Margiela, signaling an evolution in its identity.

John Galliano’s departure from Maison Margiela in 2024 was revealed through his heartfelt post on Instagram. “The rumours… Everyone wants to know and everyone wants to dream. When the time is right, all will be revealed,” Galliano posted. “For now, I take this time to express my immense gratitude. I continue to atone and will never stop dreaming.”

“Together we have done something incredible that will be forever engraved in the history of fashion. In a world where collections seem to look more and more like each other, products with no real and distinctive DNA, John gave center stage to the greatness, the culture and the values of product,” Rosso told WWD. “He made Margiela a unique house that embodies the desire for creativity and the dream of fashion, bringing it to a worldwide success based on these rare product values.”

However, there’s no disputing the impact of Galliano on the luxury brand during his tenure there. His Spring 2025 Artisanal Show was a success and he also dressed Met Gala co-hosts Zendaya and Bad Bunny. Per WWD, ‘At the time of Galliano’s appointment, market sources estimated the company generated about 100 million euros annually. It operated about 50 directly owned stores in 2014. Today, the company boasts about 120 stores globally, 50 of them having opened in the last four years, and 43 of those in Asian countries, led by Japan, China and South Korea.’

In the most recent news, Parisian Haute Couture house Maison Margiela and parent company OTB Group have announced the appointment of Glenn Martens as Creative Director with immediate effect, and look forward to building on its unique codes and brand values, with him. Martens, who was appointed artistic director at Diesel in 2020, remains at Milan-based OTB Group, which owns both Maison Margiela and Diesel.

“I feel extremely honored to join the amazing Maison Margiela, a truly unique house that has been inspiring the world for decades. And I thank Renzo for the trust he is putting in me,” expressed Glenn Martens in a company statement.

“I have worked with Glenn for years, I have witnessed his talent, and I know what he is capable of,” says Renzo Rosso, Chairman of OTB Group. “After Martin, who gave life to the Maison and its unique artisanal line, and John who made it the most cutting-edge couture house in the world, I am proud to have a third couturier at its helm. Glenn, who studied at Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts like Martin, has already shown his prowess and his vision in couture”.

Throughout its history, Maison Margiela has maintained a reputation for its avant-garde approach, often holding shows in unconventional venues and obscuring models’ faces to keep the focus on the garments. The brand’s commitment to innovation and challenging fashion norms has solidified its place as a pioneer in the industry.

Maison Margiela is dedicated to uncompromising creativity, striving to push the boundaries of fashion through innovative design and presentation. The brand’s mission is to create clothing and accessories that serve as mediums for self-expression, allowing individuals to convey their identities and stories uniquely.

Central to this mission is the Maison’s commitment to authenticity. By embracing anonymity and collective creativity, the brand emphasizes the importance of the work itself over individual recognition, fostering a collaborative environment that values the contributions of all team members.

Maison Margiela also prioritises sustainability and ethical practices, seeking to minimize its environmental impact through thoughtful design and production processes. This includes the use of upcycled materials and innovative techniques that challenge traditional manufacturing methods, reflecting the brand’s dedication to responsible fashion.

Maison Margiela’s vision centers on redefining fashion through the lens of nonconformity and the subversion of norms. The brand seeks to invert and reinterpret traditional dress codes, crafting an analytical wardrobe suited for the digital age. This approach is driven by a commitment to authenticity, radicality, and self-expression, encouraging individuals to embrace their unique identities through clothing.

The Maison celebrates unconventional aesthetics, viewing fashion as a form of artistic expression rather than a platform for personal celebrity. This philosophy is evident in its designs, which often feature deconstructed elements, unexpected materials, and innovative silhouettes that challenge conventional beauty standards. By fostering a culture of creativity and experimentation, Maison Margiela aims to inspire both the fashion industry and consumers to question established norms and explore new perspectives in style and design.

Maison Margiela has been widely recognised for its innovative approach to fashion, combining deconstructionism with avant-garde aesthetics. The brand has received critical acclaim for its unique design philosophy, which challenges conventional fashion norms and emphasises anonymity over personal celebrity. Throughout its history, Margiela’s collections have been featured in prestigious fashion weeks, museum exhibits, and retrospectives, cementing its status as one of the most influential luxury brands. The brand’s artisanal collections, which incorporate haute couture techniques with experimental fabrics and silhouettes, have been praised for their craftsmanship and originality. Additionally, the iconic Tabi boot, introduced in 1989, has become a cult favourite among fashion enthusiasts and remains one of Margiela’s most celebrated designs.

The brand’s contributions to the fashion industry have been recognised through accolades and collaborations. Maison Margiela has received numerous awards, including the ANDAM Fashion Award, which has honoured emerging and established designers for their creative excellence. The brand has also been recognised for its impact on sustainable fashion, particularly through its use of upcycled materials and innovative garment construction techniques. Under the creative direction of John Galliano, Maison Margiela continued to push the boundaries of fashion, earning media attention and industry respect. Its collaborations with global brands such as H&M, Converse, and Reebok further solidified its reputation as a forward-thinking and influential label.

Maison Margiela offers womenswear, menswear, accessories, footwear, jewellery, fragrance and home goods. The brand is known for its artisanal collections, which draw inspiration from haute couture techniques, as well as its ready-to-wear lines that make avant-garde design accessible to a broader audience. A hallmark of the brand is its use of deconstructionist elements, such as exposed seams, raw edges, and unconventional materials. Notable products include the Tabi boot, introduced in 1989, which features a distinctive split-toe design inspired by traditional Japanese footwear. The brand also assigns numerical codes to its product lines, with each number corresponding.